Yearly Archives: 2000

Dock Street: All the details

Two brewpubs: Dock Street Brasserie, 18th & Cherry streets, Logan Circle; and Dock Street Terminal, 1150 Filbert St., Reading Terminal. The company also runs Dock Street Airport, a pub at Philadelphia International Airport.

Brewers: Eric Savage started as an assistant in 1993 under brewing legend Nick Funnell, then became chief in 1995. He’s joined by brewers Josh Ervine at the Brasserie and Tim Roberts at the Terminal.

Namesake: Eric also brews Savage Beer, a draft brown ale that’s available in local bars. (A lighter, blonde variety is also available. ) Look for the very ominous mace-head tap handle. A bottled version is brewed and packaged at Yards Brewing in Manayunk.

Lure of the fries: In 1996, newly appointed chef Olivier De Saint Martin removed the brewpub’s famous trio fries from the menu. Within a year, public outcry forced him to return the munchies.

Brewing history: First brew in 1990 was a dunkel. No. 1,000 was a Rodenbach-like grand cru, aged in oak wine casks from Chadds Ford winery. Currently brewing No. 1,380.

Coming this winter: Russian imperial stout and an anxiously awaited 12-percent alcohol barleywine. Both receive four stars from beer critic Michael Jackson.

Believe it or not: Eric’s an accomplished violinist and ex-rock ‘n’ roll guitarist.

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No laughs in nitrous crackdown at the Vet

Sorry to burst your balloon, Eagles fans, but your favorite pre-game chemical is gone with the wind.

Police and city licensing officials yesterday swarmed through Veterans Stadium parking lots and confiscated at least a dozen tanks of buzz-inducing nitrous oxide.

Then, just hours before the Eagles coincidentally sleep-walked past the Chicago Bears, the mild anesthesia was released into the atmosphere.

The show of force was prompted by Daily News reports of rowdy, gas-intoxicated fans outside the Vet, officials said.

“It’s a start,” said Gerald Richards, a Licenses and Inspections manager.

“You’re going to see a difference down here,” he vowed. “Today was a first step. ”

Nitrous oxide, also known as laughing gas, is dispensed into balloons and commonly sold during pre-game tailgate parties. A filled balloon about the size of a basketball cost $5.

In a mad, dizzy scene of mind-altering dimensions, thousands of fans prepare for Eagles games by sucking down mouthfuls of the numbing gas. Before the cops arrived yesterday, the Daily News watched scores of green-clad guys inhale from blue balloons, then clumsily stagger or fall to the ground.

Though inhaling nitrous oxide for fun is perfectly legal in Philadelphia, selling it isn’t – at least not without a vendor’s license.

That was the hammer city officials used yesterday to pound the ballooners.

Undercover police spotted tanks in the middle of one lot on 10th Street. They were joined by uniformed officers and L&I agents who seized the heavy canisters.

To the jeers of scores of disappointed stoners, the agents opened the tanks’ valves and sprayed the gas into the atmosphere.

“That’s bulls—, and you know it,” one angered fan shouted, a spent balloon at his feet.

“Aw, c’mon, it was only a matter of time till they showed up,” another disappointed ballooner replied.

Other fans voiced dismay that TV news cameras had once again spotlighted Eagles fans at their worst. They tried to drown out the hissing sound of escaping gas with their own earnest cheer of “E-A-G-L-E-S! “

There were no reported arrests or fines.

“One guy told us he just found a tank and decided he’d try to make a few bucks,” scoffed Dominic Verdi, deputy L&I commissioner.

Losing a nitrous tank is costly for dealers, nonetheless. The gas, tank rental fees and the lost deposit can total more than $200.

The licensing officials also threatened to confiscate vehicles used to store the heavy gas cannisters.

“I told the guy with the Dodge Dakota, next time we’ll confiscate his truck along with his tanks,” said Verdi. “. . .Of course, next time he’ll show up in a $200 truck. “

Indeed, less than 15 minutes after the police made their first parking lot sweep, the gas men were back in business. Fans boldly waved their balloons at nonplussed cops.

The officials returned for a second sweep that netted a few more tanks.

But by then, the crowd’s attention was focused on other attractions.

A top-heavy representative from an area “gentleman’s club,” circulated through the crowd and handed out advertising cards.

“Show us your balloons!” someone in the crowd yelled.

With a smile and not much else, she complied.

In other game day action

City health department officials revealed that they’ve given the Vet’s food vendor yet another chance to clean up its act.

Following Daily News reports last month of mouse-infested, nose-picking, grease-coated, dirt-filled conditions in the city-owned stadium’s food-serving areas, the department vowed it would re-inspect the facility immediately.

However, the concessionaire, Aramark Corp., has complained the stadium is so dirty it needs more time for a thorough cleaning, a health department spokeswoman said.

The stadium will not be inspected for cleanliness till the next home game, against Dallas on Nov. 5.

In the meantime, Eagles fans have been treated to unhealthy food conditions at four home games. A Daily News tour of the facility yesterday turned up the usual display of unmitigated filth.

NFL Commissioner Paul Tagliabue joined the growing chorus of disdain for conditions at Veterans Stadium.

In a press briefing before the game, he said it was the Vet’s uneven playing field that prompted a league-wide “turf review program. “

Referring to the stadium’s “deteriorating” condition, he said, “When you look at the structure and the quality of the building compared to the new stadiums, it is a troubling thing. “

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Big prizes go to little guys

What’s happened to America’s great micros?

Samuel Adams, Celis, Red Hook. . .

You know, those breweries that used to blow us away with their fresh, imaginative craft brews, the ones that first grabbed us by the throats and showed us just how good beer could be.

Breckenridge, Nor’Wester, Blue Ridge. . .

Ten years ago, they helped pioneer the American beer revolution with award-winning lagers and ales that challenged the stale, old megabrewers with new styles that redefined our taste.

Grant’s, Mendocino, Wild Goose, BridgePort, Great Divide, Pete’s, Deschutes, Saranac, Pyramid. . .

Today?

Judging by the results of the Great American Beer Festival – the world’s biggest, most important brewing contest – all these guys are losers.

Not one of these familiar names brought home a medal from this year’s fest.

OK, Rogue and Stoudt’s – both innovative stalwarts with excellent reps – won medals. So did Sierra Nevada, Full Sail and Brooklyn.

But I can’t remember a festival when we saw so few of the microbrewing industry’s heavy hitters on the winner’s list. Wha’ happened?

There’s no easy answer.

Besides, medals aren’t everything. Samuel Adams Triple Bock and Celis White and BridgePort IPA are world classics, and losing at the annual Denver festival this year won’t change that.

The real trend may be the explosion of totally obscure names – Copper Tank, Pete’s Place, J.T. Whitney’s, Flossmoor Station, Squatters, Boscos. I thought that last one made chocolate milk!

Who are these people?

Brewpubs, mostly. Restaurants that produce less suds than I drink on a good weekend.

According to the calculations on my cocktail napkin, brewpubs collected two-thirds of all the GABF medals, including the lion’s share of golds.

Indeed, the only Philly-area golds went to brewpubs: the year-old New Road Brewhouse (36 W. Third Ave., Collegeville) and John Harvard’s Brew House (629 W. Lancaster Ave., Wayne).

New Road head brewer Brian O’Reilly was ecstatic.

“Winning was very important for me,” O’Reilly told me. “I’m sort of working alone, so it’s great to be appreciated on a national level.

“Plus, it puts us on the map. Maybe people will say, ‘Hey, they must make pretty good beer,’ and make a trip out here from the city on a Sunday afternoon. “

So, how’s a tiny brewpub manage to beat the big guys?

O’Reilly’s not certain, but he thinks brewpubs have an edge because they can afford to brew extremely small batches of beer specifically to compete in contests.

His pilsner, for instance, is not part of New Road’s regular tap rotation. The same goes for General Lafayette Inn & Brewery’s silver-winning alt.

You could complain that this is a bit of a cheat, a bait and switch for brewpubs looking to attract customers with award-winning beers that rarely appear on the menu.

But, to me, GABF medals are evidence that a brewer knows what he’s doing. And believe me, both pilsner and alt are tough styles to conquer.

O’Reilly and General Lafayette brewer Chris Leonard deserve their medals – and the customers who will follow.

As for you sloths who are too lazy for road trips, this weekend presents a perfect chance to sample the area’s medal winners – and meet their brewers – in one afternoon, without piling up frequent flier miles.

Tomorrow at Standard Tap (2nd & Poplar streets, Northern Liberties), the local GABF winners will be pouring from 3 p.m. till closing.

The winning tap list:

  • Fest – Stoudt Brewing Co., Adamstown Fest (bronze, Vienna-style lager).
  • Mad Brewer Maibock – Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant, Newark, Del., (silver, German-style schwarzbier).
  • Lodestone Lager – Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant, Media (bronze, Munchner-style helles).
  • Perkiomen Pils – New Road Brew House, Collegeville (gold, German-style pilsener).
  • Alt, Who Goes There? – General Lafayette Inn & Brewery, Lafayette Hills (silver, German-style brown ale/Dusseldorf-style altbier).
  • Main Line Oatmeal Stout – John Harvard’s Brew House, Wayne (gold, oatmeal stout).

The Tap’s also hoping to spill a few from the region’s biggest winner, the Pabst brewery in Fogelsville, Pa. The former Stroh plant landed an amazing eight medals for everything from American lager (gold, for Rainer) to non-alcoholic (silver, for Pabst NA).

Beer radar

The Marlton Tavern (Main Street, Marlton, N.J.) scored a bit of a coup this month when it landed a handful of impossible-to-find, award-winning British casks from importer B. United International. The South Jersey pub was the only one within an hour of Philly to grab any of the 150 firkins that made it across the Atlantic.

Look for:

  • Swale Indian Summer Pale Ale – Champion of Champions, 1997.
  • Gale’s Festival Mild – created for the Campaign for Real Ale as a classic version of cask mild ale.
  • Mordue Workie Ticket – Supreme Champion of Britain, 1997.
  • Harviestoun Brooker’s Bitter & Twisted – Deliciously named Supreme Champion Beer of Scotland, 1999.

Joe Sixpack, by Staff Writer Don Russell, was written this week with a bottle of Alba Scots Pine Ale. 

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Observe Oktoberfest

It’s near the end of October and you haven’t slipped on the lederhosen? What’s wrong with you, man?

It’s not too late to grab Oktoberfest. You’ll still find plenty of bottles at your favorite distributor or deli. This style is the best way for the tentative tippler to get a handle on the fuller taste of craft brews. It’s a lager, like Bud, only maltier and sweeter, and with little bitterness.

The authentic version is brewed, naturally, in Germany, where the beer is also called marzen, because it was traditionally brewed in March, then aged through the summer.

The Oktoberfest stacks at local distributors are dwindling, but last time I checked at Philadelphia Beer Co. (2525 E. York St., Port Richmond), they still had cases of Spaten Oktoberfestbier, Paulaner Oktoberfest, Samuel Adams Octoberfest and Beck’s Oktoberfest.

Look a little harder, and you may find two other of my favorites: Ayinger Oktober Fest-Marzen and Hacker-Pschorr Original Oktoberfest. Closer to home, our two Germanic brewers offer the style year round. Victory Festbier is almost smoky, and Stoudt’s Fest is an excellent buy at about 20 bucks a case.

Also, look for:

* Dock Street Marzen, on tap, at Dock Street Brew Pub (1150 Filbert St., Reading Terminal).

* Iron Hill Oktoberfest, at Iron Hill brewpubs in Media, West Chester and Newark, Del.

They’re not Oktoberfests, but two other autumn kegs are making the rounds:

* Sierra Nevada Harvest Ale is wet-hopped with fresh buds. It’s on several local taps, including O’Neil’s (611 S. 3rd St., near South Street).

* Flying Fish Blackfish is a mix of the Cherry Hill, N.J., brewery’s Porter and Extra Pale Ale. Its hops aroma alone blows away that nitrous oxide they’re snorting down at the Vet.

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Eagles fans tank up on nitrous

The fans’ mind-altering chemical of choice at Eagles games this season is not reefer, but nitrous oxide.

That’s right, laughing gas.

In yet another bizarre chapter in the city’s storied history of fan misbehavior, thousands of green-and-white-clad Eagles fans now commonly prepare for gridiron battles by tanking up on large doses of the mild anesthesia.

It is a pregame ritual straight out of Timothy Leary’s playbook.

In the parking lots surrounding Veterans Stadium, buzz-seeking fans – drawn by the hiss of escaping gas – line up at a dozen or more 4-1/2-foot-tall cannisters. Five bucks gets a full balloon that’s a little larger than a basketball.

The balloons are everywhere. Brightly colored and tightly clutched, they bob up and down among cheerfully incoherent tailgaters. Occasionally, one explodes and a drunken cheer breaks out.

It looks and sounds like a freak show at a carnival.

“It’s the real s—,” one addled fan in a Donovan McNabb jersey told me after sucking down a mouthful of the gas from a red balloon. “Pure nitrous. ”

Nearby, two heavy-set guys wearing matching yellow Eagles beaks carried three blue balloons each. They looked like overgrown children.

A few, deep breaths, and they were stumbling like fools, lurching in the dust with the pathetic, blank look of utter numbness.

It is strange and it is sad.

And it is completely legal.

Snorting other solvents – acetate or cleanser, for example – is a misdemeanor in Pennsylvania. But according to the district attorney’s office, the use or sale of nitrous oxide is unregulated.

It’s available wholesale at compressed gas dealers, who also rent the steel tanks and regulators necessary to dispense the chemical. A full tank costs about $200, plus the deposit.

“I make about 400 bucks on a good day,” said one parking-lot dealer who, at first, told me his name was “Joe. ” Then, “Tony. ” Then, “John Doe. ” Finally, he said, “Call me Mr. X.”

“But I’m thinking of getting out of the business,” he continued. “Grateful Dead concerts, Dave Matthews – they used to bring in the money.

“It just ain’t the same since Jerry [Garcia] died. ”

Still, thousands of Eagles fans psych themselves for Sunday at the Vet by consuming large amounts of a chemical more commonly associated with dental surgery.

At five bucks a pop, a balloon is cheaper – and more potent – than a stadium beer.

Thus, the lots are a dizzy mass of stupefied men and women – almost all of them in green-and-white jerseys.

When photographer Jim MacMillan and I visited the scene on Sunday, we were greeted with drunken jeering by fans ashamed to have their photographs in the newspaper.

“I don’t need my family to know I do this,” a 25-year-old balloon inhaler said.

Another dispossessed lowlife was so out of it he dropped his pants for MacMillan’s camera and exposed himself.

On 10th Street, an undercover cop had his hands full trying to nab ballooners.

“I know, they’re legal,” the cop told me, “but I hate seeing this stuff around kids. ”

He turned and yelled at three men in their 20s, “Drop those balloons. . .now! ”

The trio sheepishly dropped them, and the balloons sputtered into the air.

The cop turned back to me and explained, “Basically, I just try to scare the s— out of them. ”

Meanwhile, the dealers are brazen.

Before the Sunday night game against Atlanta a week and a half ago, I watched a stadium security guard try to halt sales at one lot by scaring off a dealer. He grabbed the tank and opened its regulator, emptying the gas into the air.

It worked for about 60 seconds – then three burly guys surrounded the guard and threatened to “kick your ass. ”

The scared guard sped off in his golf cart and the dealer was back in business.

Ten feet away, a uniformed police officer seemed more concerned about a group of fans setting off fireworks.

At Veterans Stadium’s famous Eagles Court, Judge Seamus McCaffery said the most he can do is cite dealers for vending without a license.

“You have to be creative if you want to fine them,” he said.

Mr. X, the dealer, said: “The cops hassle the T-shirt vendors more than us. The worst they can do is take your tank – then you’re out some real money. . .

“But to be honest with you, I really don’t like the stuff. It gives me a headache. ”

Harmful to the Clueless

[sidebar]

To paraphrase drug-abusing journalist Hunter S. Thompson, there is nothing more helpless and irresponsible than a man in the depths of a nitrous oxide binge.
That’s because the buzz lasts only a few minutes, so users must inhale the gas frequently to remain stoned. The constant inhalation of the gas turns users plain stupid.

It is, however, a fairly innocuous chemical. It is not known for causing serious medical problems and few deaths are linked to its use.

According to the National Inhalant Prevention Coalition, the most serious complication of nitrous oxide abuse is brain anoxia – lack of oxygen.

It happens when especially clueless users breathe either through a gas mask or in a plastic bag. Unable to remove the mask or bag when they pass out, they succumb without fresh air.

The safer way to inhale it is to expel the gas from a tank into a balloon. (Never breathe nitrous oxide straight from a compressed tank: it will freeze your lungs. )

Nitrous oxide has been in use for more than 100 years as an anesthesic, especially during dental surgery. It’s also used to help fuel high-performance race-car engines.

Though some states regulate it as a controlled substance, nitrous oxide is legal in Pennsylvania. However, House Bill 1072 (currently before the Judiciary Committee) would make it a third-degree misdemeanor to use the gas for “dulling of the brain. ”

Meanwhile, it’s available in large tanks at compressed gas dealers, and in smaller cannisters – called whippets – that are designed to spray whipped cream. It’s also available at numerous sites on the Internet.

So, what’s nitrous oxide feel like?

Here’s how one Web site, Just Say N2O, describes a nitrous experience:

“After several deep breaths of air, I inhale a lung-full of nitrous and pull down some air on top and then hold my breath.

“Within seconds, a light tingling can be felt which seems to increase in frequency. The sensation is as if waves were traveling up your body as if you were twisting or spinning.

“Disorientation increases rapidly and the pulsing sounds/feelings increase, wrapping over one another.

“It is now, with eyes shut, that I enter a dreamlike state, where I am thinking out something and the external world has essentially ceased to exist.

“Open eyes reveal some sort of tunnel vision, with regions of disorientation about the outside.

“Slowly the throbbing subsides.”

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VetFest: Guzzling in the grand tradition

Bavaria, Milwaukee, Brussels, Pottsville – among the world’s great beer capitals that these eyes have seen, none can match the suds that flow on the bucolic meadows of South Philadelphia.

It is here, on eight autumn Sundays each year, that the villagers turn out for a grand beer festival. They are gathered to send their sainted warriors, the Eagles, into battle.

Germany has its Oktoberfest. Philly has the Vet Stadium tailgate parties.

Hours – and I do mean hours – before the Eagles even strap on their armor, adoring clansmen assemble outside the fortified walls of their crumbling coliseum. In an area barely larger than the Hirschgarten in Munich, perhaps 50,000 gather for the ritual tailgate party.

One of my favorite groups is the one that arrives from Croydon in a green camper with the tasteful fake leopard interior wall carpeting, a velvet Elvis and a portable satellite TV dish. The front of the heap proclaims succinctly, “Dallas sucks. “

Whether in SUVs or trailers or pickups, the masses arrive shortly after dawn, laden with steel kegs and pallets of 30-packs. It’s just a guess, but I’d say there’s more beer shipped into the parking lots on a single Sunday than the annual production of Dock Street Brasserie, the city’s largest brewpub.

To the uninitiated, the scene is chaos. But there is a delicate protocol in which each driver stakes out a small piece of turf and zealously protects his boundaries. Strangers are greeted only after echoing a gruff chant:

“Yo, you from Jersey? I’m from Jersey! “

And then the party begins.

Tradition holds that the first cask is tapped shortly after a pre-game blessing at the local parish. True believers, however, boast of “pounding the brewskis” since the night before.

Judging from the green war paint slathered on their faces, I have little reason to doubt them.

The hours preceding the Big Game become an exercise in maximum consumption, a direct result of the steep prices charged inside the stadium. At $5.50 for a 20-ounce cup of Veterans Stadium draft, it costs the equivalent of a full case of beer to achieve a lousy buzz.

Most revelers wisely soak up some of that alcohol with ample quantities of tailgate food. Hoagies, grilled burgers, hot dogs, steaks, ribs and shrimp are the most popular, but bigtime caterers lay out everything from boiled lobster to pig roasts. I swear I saw one group butcher a live calf and serve veal cordon bleu.

Sadly, with such creative cuisine, the beer choices show all the imagination of a drunken 14-year-old. Let’s see, we’ve got Bud, Bud Light, Coors, Coors Light, Coors Extra Gold. . .

I know, I know – this is a common refrain from Joe Sixpack. But if the Vet parking lot is truly going to rival the great festivals of the world, someone’s going to have to crack open something better than this industrial swill.

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Alternatives? You’re looking for inexpensive, low alcohol and easy to drink over the long pre-game event. I lean toward the darker brews because, after all, football is a man’s game – not a wimpy sport for light-beer sippers.

Here’s a sixpack of tailgate brews

  1. Yuengling Black and Tan, 16-ounce cans. Cheap, easy to carry and a tasty eye-opener.
  2. Stegmaier Porter. Another cheap, full-bodied beer. Serve it with bratwurst. Better yet, cook your sausage in this beer.
  3. Dock Street mini keg. At 25 bucks for 5 liters, it’s fresh draft beer for the first round. Try the porter, then switch to something cheaper in bottles.
  4. Victory Whirlwind Witbier. At 5 percent, this ale is one of the Downingtown brewer’s lower-alcohol brews, with a fresh, crisp taste that won’t turn off lager lovers.
  5. Weyerbacher Autumn Fest. A taste of Oktoberfest on the Schuylkill.
  6. Saranac Adriondack Amber. At $18 a case, this is a very drinkable lager that matches well with tailgate barbecue.

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Incidentally, alcohol consumption outside the Vet is completely illegal. Ha. Police and security guards patrol the parking lots with vigilance. Ha-ha.

The fact is, unless you’re completely stoopid, the cops look the other way.

(Definition of stoopid: Holding a can of Bud while puking on a cop’s shoes. Don’t laugh – I’ve seen it done. )

Seriously, though, if you drink from a plastic cup and you hide the cooler, you’re completely safe.

Oh, one other thing

Redskins suck!

Joe Sixpack, by Staff Writer Don Russell, was written this week with a glass of Dogfish Head Import Ale. 

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Urine for a surprise at the Vet: Now they’re peeing in the sinks

Three minutes till kickoff, and the crowd inside the men’s room near Section 751 is seething with the kind of anticipation that accompanies an afternoon of excessive beer consumption.

They gotta go, and they gotta go now.

Frothing with testosterone and alcohol, the fans are in no mood to wait for such delicacies as flushing the urinal.

Hurry, you hear someone plead, the Eagles won the coin-toss.

Near the rear, a husky guy wearing, appropriately, an old Watters jersey, sizes up the long line ahead and mutters an obscenity. Then he pulls down his zipper and whizzes into a sink.

His glazed eyes show no embarrassment for his unapologetic step from civility into depravity.

Because he ain’t the only one.

Welcome to Veterans Stadium: Wash your hands at your own risk.

Infested with vermin and coated in filth, the city-owned stadium is generally regarded as the worst in the NFL. The playing field is dangerously uneven, stands are rusting, railings are wobbly, the concession windows and kitchens are grimy, the escalators are crippled, the ventilation system is grease-filled, roaches crawl on food equipment, the cotton candy man picks his nose, and mice and pigeons defecate in the food areas.

And now this: sink urination.

It happens on any given Sunday. The Vet fills with 65,000 roaring fans, and its restrooms bulge. People pee in the damndest places.

“It’s definitely a problem,” said Municipal Judge Seamus McCaffery, who runs the stadium’s Eagle Court.

“I remember the first game we had [in 1997], one of the defendants was a guy from Lawrence County who got caught in the ladies’ room with his zipper down. He claimed he was lost, but we knew what he was doing. ”

Under the penal code, McCaffery can fine miscreants a maximum $300 for disorderly conduct.

“It’s a joke for some of them,” he said. “You get well-to-do suburbanites, they run over to the MAC machine and pull out the cash, then walk away laughing. ”

Charles Carmody, a season-ticketholder in the 600 level, said he’s complained about Vet sink urination to no avail.

“It’s not an isolated incident,” said Carmody, of Gwynedd Valley, Montgomery County. “Every game, you see guys peeing in the sinks. ”

(Notably, the sink plague is confined to men’s rooms. Because so few women attend Eagles games, the Vet is one of the few venues where the line at the ladies’ room is short enough to forestall urinary unpleasantries. )

Fans say the gross behavior is especially prevalent in the 700 level, where the restrooms tend to be smaller and the fans are rowdier.

That’s where the Daily News staked out a john at the start of Sunday’s game against the Atlanta Falcons.

An hour before game time, it was basically clean and empty. A worker even stopped by to sweep up loose paper towels.

Fifteen minutes before kickoff, the urinals were two deep. Ten minutes later, 35 men waited for an opening at a half dozen urinals, and the line reached outside the door.

Most had rushed into the stadium from daylong tailgate parties in the parking lots, where only a few scattered port-o-johns provide relief. Frantically hoping to make a quick pit stop on the way to their seats, they met with frustratingly long waits.

As the seconds ticked down till kickoff, the tension grew. Burly guys with tattoos and half-filled plastic cups danced and squirmed like girls.

Finally, the guy in the Watters jersey broke the ice.

Buzzed on Bud and smelling of reefer, he relieved himself with a disgusting splash.

There were no cops or security guards on the scene. No one complained.

Instead, a guy wearing a black Eagles cap and striped Zubaz pants said, “That’s the ticket, dude. ” Then he pulled open his fly and filled another sink.

God only knows how many other basins were soiled on this night. . .or how many fans later attempted to wash their hands with the spritzed spigots.

“Anytime I see someone use the sinks to wash, I tell them not to use them,” said Carmody. “I saw a young father bring his children in and he was helping them wash up in the sinks. I told him of the problem. . .

“But it’s useless. ”

Much of the problem is pure numbers. On the 700 level, there are more than 30 places to buy a beer. . .and fewer than 10 to deposit it.

“They just don’t have enough facilities for this many people drinking that much beer,” said Steve Cross, a 700-level fan from Croydon, Bucks County.

The restrooms are so crowded, the stadium must truck in extra port-o-johns. Most are placed in nooks along the 300- and 500-level concourses.

“You go to other stadiums, and they’ve got TVs in the bathrooms,” said Cross. “Here, they’re so antiquated, you’ve got to go in a smelly outhouse. ”

Other, older arenas – 80-year-old Yankee Stadium in the Bronx, for example – suffer similar restroom problems, according to knowledgable fans.

But the much younger Vet suffers even further from malignant neglect. As it continues to seek new facilities for both the Eagles and Phillies, the city has cut spending on improvements at the 29-year-old stadium.

The place is falling apart

A recent engineering study of Veterans Stadium recommends more than $82 millions in repairs.

“The current facilities,” said the study, referring to the restrooms, “are inadequate in their numbers and locations. . .. ”

The study, by the firm Ewing Cole Cherry Brott, recommended nearly $2 million in repairs and additions to stadium restrooms. It also advised that the stadium undertake a “full-scale cleaning. . .with a strong disinfectant” to eliminate odors.

Those recommendations are under City Council review.

Meanwhile, fans are solving the urine trouble themselves.

Some leak on the ramps, in dark corners and in trash cans.

Others spray the sinks.

“That’s disgusting. That’s why some of the guys use this,” said Cross, pointing to an empty antifreeze jug. Two hours before kickoff, it was three-quarters filled.

IF YOU GO

Restrooms are less-than-conveniently located throughout the concourses at Veterans Stadium. They are clearly marked – either “Men” or “Women” – though on unannounced occasions those designations are meaningless.

Most male patrons frequent the popular urinals, which provide both uncompromising relief and a distinctive scent de pissoir.

Others prefer an alfresco experience at a variety of unexpected locations, including washroom sinks, trashcans and almost any dark corner.

Warning: the facilities are extremely popular during timeouts and between quarters. Twenty-minute waits for service are not unusual.

Reservations are not accepted.

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Sometimes, there’s no taste like home

Every once in a while, a new customer walks into Ray Swerdlow’s Sixpack Store on Roosevelt Boulevard and drops his jaw in happy disbelief.

Maybe he stopped in for a quick sixer of Bud in cans or had a hankering for one of those “old man” beers, like Schaefer or Old Milwaukee – brews you can get almost anywhere.

But then his eyes focus on a familiar label on the top shelf. He opens the fridge door – Could it really be? – and grabs a clunky bottle.

“He’ll show it to me,” Swerdlow says, “and tell me something like, ‘Deese beer, deese from my country! ‘ “

In a Philly neighborhood where thousands of Russian, Slovak, Polish and other Eastern European immigrants have settled, the import rack at the Sixpack Store in the Great Northeast is a little taste of their old home.

In recent months, the busy shop hard along the Boulevard above Tyson has built a growing selection of hard-to-find brews from places like Moscow and Gdansk and Kiev.

Pointing toward the west side of the Boulevard, Swerdlow says, “That whole section used to be Jewish. But over the years, those families have moved out and they’re being replaced with people from Russia, the Ukraine, Poland, Slovakia. . .Bustleton, Somerton, they’re just full of Eastern Europeans. “

A belly-warming glass of vodka (or three) is the favorite beverage of their former homeland. Until the breakup of the Soviet Union, beer was regarded as little more than a chaser. The worst – produced by the government-owned Zhigulyovskoye breweries – was sour and forgettable.

In the last half-dozen years, though, high-quality Eastern European beers with names like Baltika, Slavutych, Lezajsk and Hevelius have begun to woo the vodka gulpers.

Almost anywhere else in America, you’d have a tough time finding any of these beers. Retailers are reluctant to carry new imports with no name recognition.

But in big cities like Philly, where heavy populations of immigrants are looking for familiar tastes from the old country, many of the brews are showing up in area coolers.

Importing distributor Edward I. Friedland Co., for example, began stocking Obolon from Kiev when retailers in the Northeast pressured him for something from Ukraine.

“I’m not going to say it flew out of here like Corona, but I do about three pallets [30 cases to the pallet] at a time,” said Ed Friedland.

Near Allentown, Shangy’s does a brisk business with an old-style lager called Golden Pheasant from Slovakia. “We’ve got a Slovak church in Bethlehem that goes through a pallet a month,” says Shangy’s Nima Hadian.

“They grew up with it, and they love it. “

These imported specialties have a rich history in Philadelphia.

As early as 1915, Polish immigrants enjoyed an American version of of their favorite beer, which they called Piwo z Polski, or Polander. Brewed in Nicetown and Manayunk by Clebert & Olbert, the beer eventually faded after World War II.

Now, a Center City company is importing Polander straight from Brok Brewery in Koszalin.

“This is the kind of beer we enjoyed in Poland,” said Michael Blichasz, Polander’s sales rep.

How do they taste? Well, many of you will be just as happy with a Beck’s or a Molson at $5 less a case.

But there is a rich tradition in these beers, and a few – especially among the new breed of Polish beers – are worth trying.

Hevelius makes a very malty dark beer, called Kapper, the porter from Okocim gets high marks, and I can’t wait to crack this very handsome bottle of Magnat from Dojlidy.

Meanwhile, beer fans in the Northeast are awaiting the arrival of Baltika, the very popular Scandinavian-owned brewery in St. Petersburg. Its porter is considered a world classic, in the same hearty class as Finland’s Sinebrychoff and Britain’s Courage Imperial Russian Stout.

“We should have it within a month,” Swerdlow says.

Sounds like it’s time to start boning up on the Cyrillic alphabet. For now, though, you need to know only one word: Pyvo (say it: pee-vo) That’s how the Russians, Slovaks, Slovenians, Croatians, Poles, Czechs and Azerbaijanis all say beer!

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Eastern European beers run about $2.50 for a 16-ounce bottle at the Sixpack Store. In addition to its super beer selection, the joint, on the northbound side of Roosevelt Boulevard at Princeton Avenue, offers one other important customer-friendly feature: It’s open till 2 a.m. daily.

Beer radar

Sippin’ by the River, the annual Penn’s Landing wine and beer fest, is Sunday. About two dozen breweries will be pouring. The event runs from 1 to 5 p.m. Tix are $15. Info: 215-922-2386.

Meanwhile, on the other side of the river, Oktoberfest is in full froth. More than 6.5 million liters of lager and 400,000 sausages will be consumed in Munich alone.

Not everybody, though, is happy.

Prince Luitpold of Bavaria, great-grandson of the last King of Bavaria, Ludwig III, griped to one reporter about everything from high prices to the lack of seats to the lousy tunes.

“There is little Bavarian music at the festival,” he told the newspaper Scotland on Sunday.

“If you go to the beer tents, you hear things like ‘New York, New York.’ “

Joe Sixpack, by Staff Writer Don Russell, was written this week with a glass of Okocim. 

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Talkin’ Trash: Finger-pointing follows report on city’s crud-filled stadium

The Vet’s a mess – so who’s to blame?

The teams? The food vendor? The city?

Publicly, both the city and the food-and-beverage vendor yesterday took responsibility for cleaning up Veterans Stadium.

But behind the scenes, everybody’s pointing fingers in the wake of a Daily News report this week that exposed unsafe and unhealthy conditions at the Vet.

They’re embarrassed by the People Paper’s stomach-turning description of roach-infested kitchens and nose-picking employees.

And they’re trying to clean up after city inspectors cited the stadium with enough health code violations to fill seven pages.

“Heads are rolling down here,” said one source, who described a heated meeting between the Phillies and the stadium vendor in the aftermath of the Daily News report.

Sources said the Phillies are putting the heat on the stadium concessionaire, Aramark Corp. The company took over the stadium concession contract this summer when it purchased the Vet’s longtime vendor, Ogden Entertainment.

On the record, an Aramark spokesman said in an e-mail statement, “We are engaged in an ongoing repair and cleanup effort at Veterans Stadium as a key part of our transition strategy for this new account. Some of these efforts are taking place in response to the recent Board of Health findings. Other actions were scheduled well in advance of the Board of Health’s report. ”

Other sources told the Daily News that Aramark – stunned by the breadth of grime it inherited – is pressing the city to step up its maintenance of the facility.

Under the stadium concession contract, it is Aramark’s job to clean the kitchens and food-service areas. It’s the city’s job to remove trash.

The Street administration vowed to do its part.

“It is our intention to have a facility that our fans and teams can use to have a pleasant experience,” said Joyce Wilkerson, Mayor Street’s chief of staff. “We don’t want to send the wrong message about the city. We look to have a facility that allows people to have a quality time. ”

It appeared yesterday an emergency cleanup of sorts has begun.

A brief tour of the empty stadium showed evidence of a mop-and-bucket brigade. The faint odor of disinfectant wafted through the 200-level Food Court.

Sources said the first to get bathed was the stadium’s infamous cotton-candy machine.

Located beneath light fixtures and ledges coated with grease, dirt and bird-droppings, the machine was operated – at least on one occasion – by a nose-picking vendor who tended to lick his fingers.

Now, it’s missing from its usual spot.

“They yanked it immediately,” a stadium sources said. “That hit them hard, that gross description of cotton candy. ”

Elsewhere, the cleanup was superficial at best.

The walls and many of the not-so-stainless steel concession windows were still covered with a sticky film of filth.

The eating facility was marked with obscene graffiti, gobs of gum and litter.

A cat – one of the many that nest at the Vet to shepherd the stadium’s rat colony – wandered aimlessly near an indoor batting cage.

Two wagons, heaped with bags of festering garbage, awaited removal.

Other problems are less noticeable but far more severe.

An assessment of the Vet completed last November by the design firm Ewing Cole Cherry Brott recommended more than $8 million worth of priority work at the stadium. Among the most severe problems:

A rusting steel structure supporting the temporary stands that are used at every Eagles games.

Wobbily, poorly supported aluminum railings in seating areas.

A variety of electrical code violations.

Boiling water leaking from pipes.

“The leaking water will flash to steam, presenting an immediate danger to anyone nearby,” the report noted. “. . .Stadium staff reports an ever-increasing failure rate. ”

The study recommended another $25 million in renovations in coming years, assuming the Vet continues to be the home for the Eagles and Phils.

Eagles executive vice president Joe Banner said little if any work has been done since the report was released.

“To the best of our knowledge, there have no capital repairs in the year 2000 except for perhaps some minor items,” Banner said.

According to a report prepared by the city, about $1 million in structural improvements are under way, including repairs to the temporary seating area. That total, however, pales in comparison to capital spending in the mid-’90s, which reached as high as $11 million a year.

Staff writer Dave Davies contributed to this report.

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Garbage Time: Filth, vermin infest Vet

IT’S 30 MINUTES till game time, and the cotton-candy man at the Vet is serving up his goodies.

He dips his hand into the swirling machine, plucks a puffy blue cloud of candy and deposits it into his mouth.

Then he licks his fingers clean, grabs a paper cone, dips it into the machine and comes out with another wad of candy – this one’s for your kids.

It gets worse.

Above his machine, the light fixtures and ledges and pipes are coated with filth. Not just dirt and grease, but a crusty film of dried bird-droppings from roosting pigeons.

An uncovered trash can full of perhaps 100 pounds of sugar – an easy target for a passing bird – sits beneath it all.

It gets worse.

The cotton candy man picks his nose.

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THE VET IS nearing the end of another long, uneventful baseball season – a season of small crowds and little excitement. And as the Eagles begin their 2000 season, the place looks tired. The concourses are dirty. The walls are stained with rust and grime. Litter collects in corners. The concession areas smell of rotting french fries and grease.

It is dark and grim.

As officials continue to fret over the construction of new facilities for the Eagles and Phils, the city-owned stadium that has hosted millions of cheering fans over the last three decades is dying a slow, ugly death.

Like the Phillies in the month of September, Veterans Stadium itself is playing out the string.

It is a lame duck. And if the stadium itself doesn’t know that, the people who work there do.

“There’s no leadership down here,” said one stadium vending subcontractor who, like several employees interviewed by the Daily News, requested anonymity to protect his job.

“The food concessions fight with security and security blames the cleaners,” he said. “No one takes any responsibility, and the place looks like crap. ”

The stadium’s 700 food-and-beverage workers don’t even know if they’ll have jobs next season. The Vet’s longtime concessionaire, Ogden Entertainment, was sold during the summer, and its contract expires at the end of the year. No one knows who will be serving food when the Phillies return in 2001.

“No one’s told me anything,” one subcontractor said. “There are no guarantees. I don’t know if I’ll be back. No one knows if they’ll be back. ”

The price of that uncertainty is neglect.

“The Vet is going to hell,” he said. “There are rats as big as cats running around, there’s trash and garbage all over the place. They can’t get the escalators to work because they’re jammed with trash.

“It’s disgusting. ”

Another stadium source said he no longer even bothers to complain about unsafe and unhealthy conditions because the city ignores the gripes.

“Is it perfect? No,” said stadium manager Greg Grillone, a city employee. “I think there’s always room for improvement.

“But we spend more for cleaning than ever before. . .We never get complaints from the Health Department. ”

In fact, the last city health inspection in late July turned up seven pages of violations. Among the worst: mice and roach infestation, improper food handling, hazardous chemical storage and greasy, dirty ventilation.

It wasn’t the first time inspectors had turned up health-code violations.

Hours before last year’s Army-Navy game, for example, inspectors found that food in the executive hospitality suite had been left uncovered, unprotected against contamination. In the stadium’s main kitchen, meatballs and chicken were held at dangerously low temperatures that could have sickened hundreds of fans.

City officials say the stadium was supposed to correct the violations.

However, a Daily News tour of the stadium in the last two weeks revealed both unsafe and unsanitary conditions:

* Leaking pipes and puddles of water near exposed wires.

* Broken concrete and slippery floors.

* Litter and garbage in food-serving areas.

* Obscene graffiti on walls and concession booths.

* Worn, dirty, smelly carpets.

Insiders with access to nonpublic areas describe hidden corners that haven’t been cleaned in years. Compressors and motors and plumbing fixtures in the kitchens are coated with grease that attracts vermin and roaches.

The stadium is also suffering structurally, these insiders say.

They report rusting metal supports beneath temporary seats, gaping holes in cement walkways and missing bolts in seats and railings.

At the Army-Navy game two years ago, nine cadets were injured when a bleacher railing they were leaning on broke away and they fell 15 feet.

City inspectors concluded the cadets were at fault.

The Department of Licenses and Inspections reports no recent violations at the stadium. (When the Daily News told L&I about the exposed wires, an inspector immediately checked the site and concluded the wires were communications cables that did not pose a threat. )

Even if the Vet is structurally safe, the conditions are unsightly and embarrassing.

Three years ago, then-coach Ray Rhodes said the Eagles failed to sign an unnamed free-agent player, partly because of the Vet’s condition. Rhodes told a newspaper reporter the player, upon entering the Vet, took one look and declared, “This is a dump. ”

Two years ago, the NFL Players Association reported the stadium is the worst in the league and called it “a shabby, inadequate place. ”

As recently as last week, you could still read the faintly painted letters “A-R-M-Y” on the right field turf, a vestige of the Army-Navy game played 8 months earlier.

And yesterday on national television, broadcasters for Fox-Sports pointedly criticized the turf during the Eagles-Giants game.

Focusing their TV cameras on the cutouts around the pitcher’s mound and the bases, they showed millions of viewers the large, uneven gaps in the artificial turf’s seams.

“It is the worst playing field in the NFL,” announcer Bill Maas proclaimed.

Both the Phillies and Eagles – who together pay about $5 million a year to lease the stadium – have complained to the city often about the mess.

But team officials declined to criticize the city for this report. The reason: they are in the midst of negotiations for a new stadium and don’t want to antagonize the city.

“It would be inappropriate for us to comment on stadium matters,” said Phillies president Dave Montgomery.

Asked what the team tells its fans about the mess, Montgomery replied, “We try to respond to any individual complaint. Our only way to do that is to turn it over to our landlord. ”

The landlord, though, is reluctant to spend much to fix its lame-duck stadium.

After an influx of capital improvements early in the Rendell administration, City Hall – anticipating new facilities – annually has cut stadium spending, according to city sources.

Major repairs to air-conditioning systems, plumbing and the bathrooms are beyond the capability of the stadium’s 50-man maintenance crew. So they go undone, city sources say.

“Of course the Eagles and Phillies are going to complain,” one city source familiar with Vet operations said. The stadium is “antiquated, and the city’s not spending on capital improvements. ”

Further, low-bid contracts for security and cleaning provide bottom-of-the-barrel service.

“Generally, you get what you pay for,” said the city source. “The problem is, there’s no incentive to beef up the contracts, given the future of the stadium. ”

NEAR THE cotton-candy man, a woman pouring sodas looks bored. The Phillies game has started, but business is slow.

She folds a napkin and wipes sweat from her neck and brow. Then she uses the same napkin to brush crumbs from the stainless-steel counter.

She’s a nose-picker, too.

“What are you going to do?” one subcontracting vendor asked. “You’ve got 4 percent unemployment. You’re not exactly getting the cream of the crop down here, as far as workers go.

“I think Ogden does a pretty good job, all things considered. ”

Ogden Entertainment, whose contract expires this winter, has run the food and beverage concession at the Vet for the past 15 years. It’s been a shaky tenure with notable lowlights, including:

* A well-publicized beer scam in which it cheated fans out of an estimated $500,000 by under-pouring suds in improperly marked cups.

* A sexual harassment lawsuit filed by one of its restaurant hostesses.

* An LCB citation for serving underage fans who subsequently brawled on national TV.

* The alleged rape of an 11-year-old fan by workers at one of its subcontractors.

* A string of slip-and-fall lawsuits stemming from its alleged failure to clean up messes. It also got sued for allegedly burning a cop with boiling chicken soup.

* A scathing rebuke from City Council over its lousy, overpriced food.

Insiders at Ogden and the stadium say the poor quality is largely due to low attendance at Phillies games. It’s costly to run a food operation designed to serve 65,000 fans when only 14,000 show up.

Since its high-water mark during the 1993 Phillies championship season, gross concession revenue has dropped by up to $10 million a year.

Some stadium sources blame Ogden. They say the company has been slow to improve its menu, and the prices are too high for the poor quality of food.

The company – and the stadium itself – also seems unprepared for the rare sellouts. Large crowds at Eagles games wait at concession windows for 30 minutes or more. Frequently, fights break out in the beer lines.

It gets so crowded during some Eagles games that officials must set up Port-a-Potties in the concourses. Despite Ogden’s bad rep, a contract extension appeared likely. In an industry where contracts usually are long-term, finding a new concessionaire for a stadium on life-support would be all but impossible.

Then, the city caught what appeared at first to be a lucky break: This summer, Ogden Entertainment was purchased by the giant Philadelphia-based Aramark Corp.

New management might mean better service, improved quality. Maybe cleaner kitchens.

With the concession contract set to expire after the Eagles season concludes this winter, the city quickly opened talks with Aramark. In recent days, however, the negotiations reportedly have bogged down.

Uncertain how new stadium construction will affect the Vet, the city wants only a one-year deal with the company, according to sources familiar with the talks.

Aramark, worried that it will be forced to spend thousands to clean up after Ogden, wants a multi-year deal to recoup its investment.

Now, it seems the lucky break wasn’t so lucky after all: Aramark can walk, the city can’t.

Fifteen years ago, a half-dozen companies vied for the food concession at the city’s huge, gleaming stadium. City Hall boasted that its contract with Ogden was the best in the industry. The city would keep up to 58 cents on every $1 spent on beer, hotdogs and Crackerjack. In the past 10 years alone, Vet Stadium food and beverage concessions have earned the city $40 million.

This time, the city is desperate.

The deal won’t be so lucrative.

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THERE IS a bittersweet feeling in the near-empty stands at the end of every baseball season. Long-suffering Phillies fans curse still another last-place finish, yet cherish the simple pleasure of watching America’s pasttime.

For true fans, watching the season end is a sacred experience, like a funeral for a friend. But instead of “amen,” we get to say, “Wait till next year! ”

With its future uncertain, though, Veterans Stadium enjoys no such hope. Even the city’s vow to spend $80 million in improvements if there is no new stadium deal by November seems a laughable waste of money.

Yet, if the city and its sports franchises miraculously cut a deal today, it still would be three years till the new stadiums are built.

That’s three more years of football and baseball at the Vet – of grimy walls and trash-covered floors, of rats and roaches, of the cotton-candy man and the soda lady.

Of neglect.

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