Yearly Archives: 2009

Rooting against the evil Yankees

This column originally appeared in the Inquirer op-ed.

The old saying is that rooting for the Yankees is like rooting for General Motors. But wait a second – these days, aren’t we all pulling for the bankrupt GM and its endangered autoworkers?

Make it Goldman Sachs: Rooting for the Yankees is like rooting for corrupt millionaires.

Which is why this year’s World Series is not merely an opportunity for the Phillies to avenge their loss to the Yankees in the 1950 championship. Most of us don’t remember or care about that.

No, this is our chance to finally defeat the enemy of our democracy: greed.

Scan the $2,625-a-game premium seats at Yankee Stadium, and you’ll see Wall Street traders, fresh from looting the American financial system, smoking cigars wrapped in $100 bills while cheering performance-enhanced prima donnas in a billion-dollar stadium subsidized by taxpayers.

The Yankees have long corrupted the sanctity of America’s pastime with their lousy dollars. They bought their way to their first championship with Babe Ruth in 1921, and they’re trying to do it again in 2009. They spent more than $200 million this year on player contracts – nearly three times the major-league average. Their lineup boasts the highest-paid player at six different positions.

And they cheat. No team has had more players publicly linked to the use of performance-enhancing drugs than the Yankees. Rodriguez, Clemens, Giambi, Sheffield, Knoblauch, Justice, Brown – the list just goes on.

In the past, Yankee apologists might have swayed the majority by arguing that that’s the American way, that success and wealth at any cost – not fair play and the common good – are what made this nation great. That was back when capitalism had a better reputation.

In those days, the Yankees ruled the world as if they were the Chosen Ones. Each game day, they’d walk to the dugout in the old Yankee Stadium beneath a sign reminding them of that famous line of Joe DiMaggio’s:

I want to thank the good Lord for making me a Yankee.

Never mind that I’m fairly certain no one – not even Vince DiMaggio – ever said, “I want to thank the good Lord for making me a Phillie. ” The quote just stinks of shameless hubris, as if no less a being than God Almighty Himself penciled in the day’s lineup.

This sense of smug entitlement has only been abetted by a jock-sniffing news media. Grinning TV hacks wear NY hats on camera as if they were suiting up for the big game. ESPN tracks the various dalliances of A-Rod.

Over the years, the best we have been able to hope for has been to pick up the New York papers after one of the city’s teams got jobbed out of inevitable victory to read – and laugh at – the sob stories.

I know, good sportsmanship says you shouldn’t kick a guy when he’s down. But the exception is when he’s a New Yorker. Who among us, for example, wasn’t rooting for Pedro Martinez during the 2003 American League playoffs when he decked 73-year-old Yankee coach Don Zimmer?

America, despite its fixation with the holy dollar, has always recognized the Yankees for what they are. Chicago newspaperman Mike Royko wrote that “hating the Yankees is as American as pizza pie, unwed mothers, and cheating on your income tax. “

Though Philadelphia has only ever faced the Yankees once when it mattered, it has always held particular enmity for the team. We’ve spat at its success and booed its stars. Living in the shadow of the Big Apple will do that to you.

Down here in Philly, we know losing better than anyone else on planet Earth. Which means that, in a world where we’ve finally witnessed the comeuppance of greed, no team is better suited to vanquish the common enemy than the Phillies.

Look, I’m not saying money is the root of all evil. I’m saying the Yankees are.

-30-

How Philly became the pilsner capital of America

(Published July 2009 in Beer Advocate Magazine.)

Did you happen to catch the New York Times a couple months ago, when writer Eric Asimov complained about the lousy beer selection (9 bucks for a single 16-ounce can of PBR!) at the new Yankee Stadium? Where, he wondered, were the authentic Pilsners?

Not those watery mainstream poseurs (I’m looking at you, Miller Lite) that claim to possess “true” Pilsner flavor. Asimov wondered about the whereabouts of a style that seems designed for a long afternoon in the grandstands—crisp, refreshing and light bodied with an assertive hoppy bitterness and an exceptionally dry finish.

One-hundred miles south of the Bronx, fans of the World Champion Phillies could only chuckle when Asimov listed his top 10 American Pilsners. Three of them—Troegs Sunshine Pils, Victory Prima Pils, and Sly Fox Pikeland Pils—are among the popular crafts on tap at the Phils’ ballpark.

Indeed, the southeastern corner of Pennsylvania has emerged as a hotbed of craft-brewed Pilsners. In one tiny, 40-mile triangle just west of Philadelphia, Victory, Sly Fox, and Stoudt’s Brewing have amassed a dozen Pilsner medals collectively at the Great American Beer Festival (GABF). The region is known especially for its German-style Pils (more precisely, northern German).

The distinction is obvious when comparing two classics from the south and north: Spaten from Munich and Jever, near the sea. Both are bright, clear and golden, the product of pale malts and aromatic Hallertau hops. These are fine sons of the style born in Bohemia in 1842.

Raise each glass to your mouth, and the difference emerges quickly. Spaten’s hops are softly aromatic, and its malt is bready; Jever seems ready to punch you in the nose. Take a sip, and the Bavarian caresses you with a sweet, mellow kiss. The stark Teuton from the north bites you on the tongue. Same country, same style, two different beers.

Blame it on the water. It’s naturally hard: The calcium in the north highlights the hop bitterness, especially the somewhat metallic Tettnanger variety. None of which explains the popularity of German Pils in the Keystone State.

For that, you might look to Stoudt’s, the state’s first microbrewery, and whose Pilsner came to define the American variety of craft-brewed Pilsner. In a five-year span in the mid-1990s, Stoudt’s Pils won three golds and a bronze at the Great American Beer Festival. (It’s no coincidence that one of the early mentors of Stoudt’s brewers was Karl Strauss, born at a brewery in northern Germany.)

“Stoudt’s set the standard for doing German lagers,” said Brian O’Reilly, brewmaster at Sly Fox Brewing in Royersford and Phoenixville, Pa., whose Pilsners have won three GABF medals. “Then, Victory came along with Prima Pils, and now people in this region are just used to the flavor.”

Victory’s German-trained Bill Covaleski credits Stoudt’s too, but looks back a bit further. The region, he notes, was largely settled by Germans; the Pennsylvania Dutch still farm the acres of Chester and Lancaster counties just west of Victory’s brewery in Downingtown, Pa.

“Pils never went away in this area,” said Covaleski. “We never lost our taste for it. … I remember when I was 10 years old, tasting my dad’s Carling Black Label. It was harsh and bitter, just like a German Pils.”

Carling Black Label? I think that’s on tap at Yankee Stadium.

GERMAN-STYLE PILS
Aroma: Light malt with spicy hops and mild sulfur
Flavor: Crisp, bitingly bitter
IBU: 25–45
ABV: 4.5- to 5.5 percent
Examples: Victory Prima Pils, Bitburger, Trumer Pils, Stoudt’s Pils, Jever Pilsener, Troegs Sunshine Pils, Left Hand Polestar Pilsner, Sly Fox Pikeland Pils, Warsteiner Verum, Brooklyn Pilsner, Penn Kaiser Pils.