June 22nd, 2009 Joe Sixpack
Before you go off complaining about the damn Pennsylvania Supreme Court and its ruling last week against sixpack sales in convenience stores, realize that what was required to enable those sales in this case was an activist court.
Quick recap: Sheetz, kind of the Wawa of western Pa., sought a retail license - the type that’s available to delicatessens (the Foodery) or even supermarkets (Wegman’s), as long as they maintain a separate seating area inside the store where customers can consume the beer. Sheetz had made no such provision, and wanted to sell beer for takeout only.
I know, stupid rule - the whole idea of sixpacks is they’re handy for taking home. The PLCB must’ve been on the same page, because it granted the license.
The state’s beer distributor association appealed the decision and won in Commonwealth Court. Sheetz was joined by the PLCB in the appeal to the state Supreme Court.
The high court rightly rejected the licensing because the PLCB clearly ignored the explicit intent of the law.* Namely, that there are two basic licenses:
- R-retail. Permits consumption of beer on premises and sixpack sales to go.
- D-distributor. No requirement to maintain seating on premises, but must sell beer by the case.
Sheetz, the court noted, wanted it both ways: sales of sixpacks without the obligation to maintain a separate seating area. Allowing an R licensee that right would be patently unfair to those who paid substantial fees for their D license, the court said.
Yes, the wording of the rule is a bit dodgy (see below), and the dissent rightly pointed out that the R licensees have to purchase their beer from D licensees, so what’s the big deal? But the majority opinion noted (and this is hugely important to any discussion about state liquor laws) that “the purpose of the Code is to restrain the sale of alcohol and to protect the public welfare, health, peace, and morals of the citizens of Pennsylvania.” So, on any close calls, beer lovers are going to be on the losing side.
Outdated concept of beer? Hell, yeah. But the court stated that “…it is not our role to sanction such a momentous transformation.” In other words, if you supported sixpacks in this case, you need an activist bench.
Here’s the majority opinion.
And here’s the sole dissenting opinion (Eakin).
*Here’s the exact language, my emphasis:
“Retail dispenser” shall mean any person licensed to engage in the retail sale of malt or brewed beverages for consumption on the premises of such licensee, with the privilege of selling malt or brewed beverages in quantities not in excess of one hundred ninety-two fluid ounces in a single sale to one person, to be carried from the premises by the purchaser thereof.
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June 21st, 2009 Joe Sixpack
The lousy weather failed to put much of a damper on yesterday’s N.J. Brewers Guild festival aboard the Battleship New Jersey. The event was held under a tent, so while everything was a bit soggy, the turnout was very good and the beer was excellent. The biggest complaints I heard came from the brewers themselves; because they had arrived early to set-up their gear, most of them were forced to unload their trucks in a downpour.
The payoff, as I said, was tremendous beer. I always look forward to this festival because most of the breweries that attend are not local, giving me an opportunity to sample foreign brews without actually traveling. I think this year might’ve been the best, with an outstanding range of both classic styles and unusual varieties. And with all honesty, I tasted only one disappointing sample: a crappy fruit beer from a brewery whose name I’ve already forgotten. Meanwhile, here are my highlights:
- Triumph (Princeton) Sour Tripel. I had a feeling this would a good one when I saw a bunch of local beer geeks huddled near the keg. Very tart and way too easy to drink, despite its 11 percent abv.
- Pizzeria Uno (Metuchen) Porter. Served on cask, it was quite mellow and very nicely balanced.
- Harvest Moon (New Brunswick) Saison. Light, spicy, very refreshing. I haven’t visited HM’s brewpub in years; I’m going to have to stop in next time I travel I-95 in North Jersey.
- Basil T’s (Woodbridge) Smoked Pale Ale. I’m used to smoked lagers or porters, so a smoked pale ale was a first for me, and they nailed it. Not overly smoky, very enjoyable.
- Iron Hill (Maple Shade) Pig Iron Porter. IH’s new joint hasn’t cranked up the brew kettles yet (brewer Chris LaPierre told me that should happen later this week), so this was actually brewed by Larry Horwitz (I’m guessing in West Chester). What a freaking excellent beer. Rich, chocolatey, with a perfectly bittered edge. IH should send this one out to Denver for the GABF.
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June 19th, 2009 Joe Sixpack
This week’s spot with Anthony & Glen focused on beers from the Far East. If you were listening and didn’t have a pencil handy, here’s what I recommended. All are available in the Philly vicinity.
- Hitachino Nest Red Rice (Japan) - almost anything from this small brewery is superb, including its Belgian-style White and XH, aged in sake casks.
- San Miguel Dark (Philippines) - basically a Munich-style dunkel. Sweet and pairs well with food.
- Asahi Black (Japan) - Very hard to find. Full-bodied and somewhat malty, plus - unlike Kirin - it’s actually brewed in Japan.
- Harbin (China) - Basically a pale Euro lager. I mentioned mainly as an alternative to the far-more familiar Tsingtao.
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June 19th, 2009 Joe Sixpack
Craft beer drinkers always seem to be in search of the next, best thing, a trend that’s reflected in today’s column. But sometimes we forget about old standbys.Yards ESA comes to mind because it’s been around for years.
I enjoyed a fresh sixtel at a friend’s party a couple weeks ago, and I have to say it was the best ESA I’ve tasted in 3 years. I think Yards is nailing that style in its new brewery.
There’s even better news coming down the road. The brewery’s Tom Kehoe tells me Yards is close to getting its hands on a bunch of Hoff-Stevens kegs with Sankey hookups. Why is that important? Because the old-style kegs (mostly extinct) are equipped with a side bunghole, which would allow the brewery to dry-hop the cask-conditioned ale, as it was originally designed.
The acquisition would mean more work at the brewery: insertion of hop pockets (basically a mesh sock filled with hops) and separate cleaning. But it will also produce a more aromatic, fresher-tasting bitter when served on a handpump.
Stay tuned, I’ll have more details on where you can find the old and improved ESA. And there’s more news about Yards coming later today.
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June 17th, 2009 Joe Sixpack
Saturday is the last full day before the summer solstice, and it’s packed with more beer events than I’ve seen since Beer Week. Sunday is Father’s Day, providing a perfect opportunity for everyone to sleep it off.
The stars must be in perfect alignment. Check out Saturday’s events:
Noon & 5 p.m. - Harrisburg Brewers Fest . 40-plus brewers in downtown Harrisburg. (Sold out)
11 a.m.-8 p.m. - 2nd Street Festival in Northern Liberties. Food, music and suds from the neighborhood’s many great beer destinations. 60 vendors, bring the kids. PAYG.
11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. - Saison Lunch @ Johnny Brenda’s (Frankford & Girard, Fishtown). 10 Saison/ Farmhouse Ale/Biere de Gardes plus traditional brunch with French country specialties. PAYG.
Noon-3 p.m. - Southern Tier Beer Lunch @ High Street Grill (Mt. Holly, N.J.). Four courses paired with the beers of Southern Tier, including Cherry Saison. Tix: $45.
Noon-6 p.m. - 6th Annual Asian Festival @ Penn’s Landing. I doubt there will be much in the way of beer, but there’s plenty of Asian food. Wash it down with a cold one in nearby Old City. Free.
1-5 p.m. - Garden State Craft Brewers Guild Festival aboard the USS New Jersey, Camden waterfront. 16 Jersey brewers. Tix $40, available here.
1 p.m.-midnight - Wheat Beers of Summer Festival in the beer garden @ Blue Ox Bistro (7980 Oxford Ave., Fox Chase). 20 different wheat beers PAYG, $4/glass.
1-11 p.m.- One-year anniversary of the Institute (12th & Green, above Spring Garden). Primo taps (Founders Canadian Breakfast Stout, He’brew Lenny R.I.P.A. Aged in Rittenhouse Rye barrels) with free buffet (till 3 p.m.). PAYG.
3 p.m. - BBQ @ the Ballpark. Beer from Sly Fox and River Horse, food from Sweet Lucy’s. (Sold out.)
Still thirsty? If you’ve got room for more, join City Food Tours’ Craft Beer & Artisanal Cheese tour in Old City on Sunday afternoon. Tix ($45) here.
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June 16th, 2009 Joe Sixpack
You may remember that glorious 350-mile cycling ride local beer enthusiasts took up to Brewery Ommegang last year for Belgium Comes to Cooperstown. (Note: that’s not me and I didn’t ride with nearly that much beer.) The folks who led the ride, Jeff Appletans and Lara Marek, are doing it again this summer, and you can join them.
The tour begins on Saturday July 25th and arrives at the brewery Friday, August 1st for the VIP Dinner and two nights of camping on the brewery grounds. It’s a bit of a grind, but yours truly managed it after just 6 weeks of training. There’s great food and beer and very comfy hotels every night and, the ultimate payoff is, without a doubt, one of the top 3 beer festivals in America.
The price will be $1250 (double occupancy + $400 for single), which includes accommodations and most dinners and breakfasts (alcohol & lunch not included) PLUS VIP tickets for the Belgian Beer festival along with 2 nights camping. Transportation of camping gear & clothing to the festival is provided, and with return transportation for you and your gear back to Philly. You will also receive a DVD video diary of the trip as well as a cycling jersey.
For more info, drop jeff an email: bicycleja at yahoo.com
In the meantime, check out this itinerary that Jeff sent along.
- Sunday, July 26th we ride about 38 miles to Delaware Water Gap with an optional afternoon ride of 20-25 miles to visit 2 breweries. We’re staying at the Deer Head Inn where we’ll eat dinner and enjoy an evening of Jazz. Breakfast is included the following morning.
- Monday, July 27th we have a spectacular ride through Delaware Water National Recreation Area to Milford, PA (about 40 miles) where we stay at the beautiful Hotel Fauchere. In the afternoon riders will have the option of riding to the top of NJ, in High Point State Park with dinner back at the hotel that evening. Breakfast is included the following morning.
- Tuesday, July 28th we ride to Hawley, PA (about 40 miles, there will also be an optional afternoon ride) where we’ll be staying at the The Settlers Inn, a fabulous Arts and Crafts style inn with an excellent dinner which includes a great beer selection. Breakfast is included the following morning.
- Wednesday, July 29th we ride about 70 miles to Hancock, NY where we’ll stay at the Hancock House Hotel. Dinner is on your own but we recommend the Bluestone Grill.
- Thursday, July 30th (breakfast at the hotel on your own) we ride 50 miles to Andes, NY and stay at the Andes Hotel for a special meal and more great beers.
- Friday, July 31st-(breakfast on your own, restaurant across the street) we ride the last 50 miles to the Ommegang Brewery where we’ll set up camp before the VIP dinner that evening.
- Saturday, August 1st - Before the Festival we plan to ride around Lake Otsego which is about 35 miles. There will be time to shower and get something to eat before the festival begins at 2pm and goes until 6pm. That evening we’ll enjoy a BBQ hosted by Iron Hill Brewery. Food is available for purchase day of the festival as well.
- Sunday, August 2nd – Break down camp, pack up and return to Philadelphia around 11am.
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June 16th, 2009 Joe Sixpack
Terrapin Beer Co. of Athens, Ga., one of the south’s larger craft breweries, is finally making its way north of the Mason-Dixon. Philly should be seeing supplies by August, via Shangy’s.
The brewery’s Dustin Watts told me the move was made possible by its over-doubling of capacity. “Terrapin has always wanted to creep up the coast,” Watts said. “Philadelphia is obviously a fantastic beer city. The beer culture that people have there is fantastic. I visited last January and absolutely loved hanging out with people in town. We always knew that Philadelphia was one of the key spots to have our beer.”
Terrapin is probably best known for its Rye Pale Ale and its highly rated Big Hoppy Monster, both of which will reach local shelves. And we could see some 22-ounce bombers from its well-regarded Side Project.
I forgot to ask if we’ll see the fruits of The Midnight Brewing Project, Terrapin’s collaboration with Colorado’s Left Hand Brewing. The web site says those beers are available only in the south and Colorado. We’re more likely to see Brewmaster Spike Buckowski’s efforts with Belgium’s Dirk Naudts. Watts told me Terrapin had been named as the co-brewer of 2010’s Signature Series collaboration with DeProef, which is nationally distributed.
About the brewery’s name: The brewers aren’t particularly fond of turtles. They’re Deadheads and the name is a tribute to Terrapin Station.
Welcome to Philly, y’all.
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June 15th, 2009 Joe Sixpack
Flying Fish’s Exit Series of specialty beers– intended as an homage to the New Jersey Turnpike – has been flagged by the authority that runs the toll road.
“It’s just not a good tie-in,” said authority spokesman Joe Orlando. “A toll road and a beer company – it’s not the right thing.”
Flying Fish launched its Exit beers in March with the intention of periodically releasing special ales named after each of the Turnpike’s 18 exits. Its first, Exit 4, is a hoppy Belgian tripel, labeled with a generic white-and-green highway sign and a local road map.
Orlando said the authority has already asked the Cherry Hill, N.J., company to halt its marketing of the Exit series, and that the agency had consulted with an attorney to press its objections.
“We haven’t heard back from [the brewery], yet, but they’re still out there promoting it,” Orlando said.
Flying Fish president Gene Muller confirmed he’d spoken with the authority: “They told me they’re not real happy with this because they don’t want anyone to think the turnpike is responsible for making beer. I said, ‘That’s good, because I don’t want people thinking Flying Fish is responsible for all the toll hikes.’”
Muller said the series does not infringe on any Turnpike-related trademarks. He added, “We’re celebrating the Turnpike, and they’re confirming everyone’s bad impression of New Jersey. You’d think all these well-paid people would have something better to do than go after someone who generates taxes for the state.”
News of the dispute was first published last week by the online Toll Roads News, which indicated that the authority didn’t like the flavor of Exit 4, either. It quoted Orlando: “…The beer tastes like [unprintable].”
UPDATE I: Orlando called me late yesterday to say that he never told the reporter for Toll Roads News that Exit 4 tastes like “crap” or “shit.” He added, “I can’t tell the difference between Coors and Bud.” And further: “This is not a huge deal. It’s not like Brown versus the Board of Education.”
UPDATE II: Peter Samuel of Toll Roads News emailed me today (6/16) to note he’d added the following to his report:
Joe Orlando was making a joking comment in a light hearted banter, not making a serious negative assessment of Exit 4 beer. He hadn’t even tried the beer.
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June 12th, 2009 Joe Sixpack
There are still a few tix left for tomorrow’s walking tour of Northern Liberties. We’ll be dropping into some of the great bars and restaurants of the neighborhood while exploring its incredible history as the city’s original workplace.
The tour is brought to you by First Person Arts Edible World program, which promotes the art of documentary and story telling.
Northern Liberties was the city’s first real expansion beyond its Old City core. Its history reminds me of Sim City, as if it were set up from the start to keep all the crappy industrial uses - mills, tanneries, smiths - separate from the housing. I’ve been using the fantastic Workshop of the World website for my research and have learned some amazing history. Did you know, for example, that Disston Saws (which I’d always associated with the Tacony neighborhood) actually started out at Front & Laurel (that weird intersection beneath I-95)? At one point in the 1850s, the manufacturer had more than a quarter-million square feet of building space.
And, of course, there were breweries. Schmidt’s and Ortlieb’s were the two largest, but there were many others, as beer historian Rich Wagner has taught me. Most notably, it’s at American & Poplar streets where the first American lager was brewed.
I lived in Northern Liberties in the mid-1980s, which was kind of a period of transition from its deeply Eastern-European roots to a burgeoning neighborhood of rehabbed condos, bistros, bars and soaring real estate prices. The only decent beer back then was at Ortlieb’s and Liberties, but my crew tended to throw darts at Dave’s (now Abbaye) because Yuengling was something like $2.50 a pitcher.Today? You might find a single pint of Lager (or more likely Kenzinger) for $2.50. The neighborhood has undergone a remarkable evolution, beginning mainly with Standard Tap and 700, and now extending up to the brand new Piazza at Schmidt’s.
Tomorrow’s tour will touch on all of this, from the earliest days of the neighborhood, through its grand industrial history, to its current standing as one of the city’s best beer destinations. We’ll enjoy great beer and food at the new Swift Half, Standard Tap, the Foodery, 700 and Ortlieb’s Jazzhaus.
The tour runs from 2-5:30 p.m. Tickets are $75 ($65 for members of First Person Arts), or $140 per couple, and that includes all food and drink. The event raises funds for First Person Arts’ many other programs. You can order them here.
Join me! Maybe I’ll even show you where, one night 25 years ago, I set my rooftop deck on fire and scared the hell out of all the neighbors.
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June 12th, 2009 Joe Sixpack
- Clipper City Heavy Seas Red Sky at Night firkin @ The Drafting Room (Springhouse, Montco), Tonight, 5 p.m
- Bear Republic Heritage @ face-off with Ballast Point, TJ’s Drinkery (Paoili), tomorrow, 8 p.m.
- Troeg’s Nugget Nectar @ Teresa’s Next Door (Wayne) during Main Line Jazz & Food Festival, tomorrow, 4-10 p.m.
- Navigator Doppelbock @ Ballast Point tasting, 1601 Cafe (10th & Tasker, South Philly), Tuesday (6/16), 5 p.m.
- La Rulle Estivale Tripel @ Belgian Night, High Street Grill (Mt. Holly, N.J.), Tuesday (6/16), 7 p .m.
- Kinder Pils @ Triumph Brewing (2nd & Chestnut, Old City), all weekend.
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