Sixpack Sez
ABOUT 10 YEARS ago I remember writing that Philadelphia - despite its rich German heritage - was ignoring one of the best traditions in beer drinking, namely Oktoberfest. Outside of one or two small festivals organized by churches and civic groups, I griped, there were few opportunities to hoist a mug and munch a wurst in my lederhosen.
Hold it, that didn't sound right.
But it doesn't matter, because as we celebrate German-American Day this weekend, Oktoberfest is alive and kicking in Philadelphia.
Dozens of restaurants and taverns throughout the region are celebrating the wedding of Prince Ludwig and the lovely Therese (don't worry, I didn't get an invitation either) with dinners and German beer specials. Oktoberfest has grown so much, you're even beginning to hear oompah music in Irish bars.
Last week, I bumped into a mini celebration while waiting for a train at 30th Street Station. There, at Bridgewater's Pub, they were serving bratwurst and pouring full - and I do mean full - liters of Paulaner Oktoberfest.
That's the way the rich, malty beer was meant to be consumed: in mass quantities drained from huge, heavy glass mugs that test your arm strength and bladder capacity. It took my tiny waitress both hands to lug the first liter over to my table. It took me two trips to the men's room to polish off the third.
And we're still only into the first weekend of the month.
German-American Day
Local German-Americans are celebrating the arrival of Germans in Philadelphia in 1683 with a weekend of events. A complete schedule is here.
Today: Proclamation ceremony in the Mayor's Reception room at City Hall. Noon. (Yes, there will be beer!)
Tomorrow-Sunday: Bier und Wurstfest, with bratwurst, pretzels, sauerkraut and other German fare at the German-American Society of Pennsylvania (611 Spring Garden St., Northern Liberties). 215-627-2332.
Sunday: German-American Beer Tasting with Marnie Old at the German-American Society of Pennsylvania, noon, $35 non-members, 215-627-2332.
Technically speaking
Oktoberfest is almost over. While the Bavarian celebration marks the Oct. 12, 1810, wedding of the aforementioned Ludwig and Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen, it actually begins in September and ends on the first Sunday in October. Americans figure Oktober means October, so they party all month.
About the beer
The German beer served at the earliest Oktoberfests was a dark lager called dunkel. In 1872, however, Spaten brewer Josef Sedlmayer introduced a new style, based on Vienna lager, and it was an immediate hit.
The style, also called Marzen, is traditionally brewed in March with a stronger malt content, then cellared into the summer. It's usually copper-colored with a slight, roasted sweetness, little hop (Hallertau and Tettnang) bitterness and low (4.5 to 5.5 percent) alcohol.
What's pouring
If you want to be authentic, enjoy what they drink in Munich, Germany: Try Oktoberfest from Spaten, Hofbrau, Paulaner, Hacker Pschorr, Lowenbrau and Augustiner. For an unusual twist on the traditional style, look for Erdinger, a rare wheat-based lager.
Most of the area breweries produce a festival beer. Look for: Victory Fest, Flying Fish OktoberFish (named best fest by the Baltimore Sun), Sly Fox Oktoberfest, Stegmaier Oktoberfest, Stoudt's Oktoberfest and Penn Oktoberfest.
Most brewpubs serve Oktoberfest, too, including King of Prussia's Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery, which calls it Rocktoberfest.
Other excellent American versions: Left Hand Oktoberfest Marzen Lager, Samuel Adams Oktoberfest, Thomas Hooker Oktoberfest Lager and Avery The Kaiser, an imperial (9 percent alcohol) Oktoberfest.
Where it's pouring
The organizers of German-American Day have pulled together a huge list of area taverns, restaurants and other joints serving authentic Oktoberfest beer this month. See it at www.germanamericanday.org/prost.html.
T.J's Everyday (35 Paoli Plaza, Paoli) is serving a ton of Oktoberfest drafts through the weekend, including hard-to-find varieties from Bell's, Mahr's, Ramstein and Allgauer.
Also, look for these full-scale Oktoberfest celebrations:
Lion Brewery (700 N. Pennsylvania Ave., Wilkes Barre), 5 p.m.-11 tonight, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. tomorrow, 800-233-8327, ext. 346.
Stoudt's Brewing (2800 N. Reading Road (Route 272), Adamstown, Pa.). Pennsylvania's first microbrewery's kicking it up every Sunday in October, with music, food and fresh beer. $8 (kids free), 717-484-4387.
River Horse Brewing (80 Lambert Lane, Lambertville, N.J.). Noon-5 p.m. tomorrow and Sunday, food, beer, live music, 609-397-7776.
Cannstatter Volksfest Verein (9130 Academy Road, Northeast). The GTV Almrausch Schuhplattlers get in one last celebration with authentic dancers, beer and food, 8 p.m.-midnight Nov. 2, $8.50 ($10 at the door), 610-544-2647.
Where to bite the wurst
Throughout the month, Chef Walter Staib of City Tavern (138 S. 2nd St., Old City) is serving an authentic German menu.
You might not be able to pronounce, but try Fleischkäse (beef and pork terrine), Kassler Rippchen (smoked, cured pork chop with mashed potatoes and sauerkraut) and Schlacht Platte (a classic plate of sausages and smoked meats).
Other dinners:
Rock Bottom (King of Prussia Plaza). German-theme menu with Bavarian stew, chicken schnitzel and pretzel bread pudding, through Sunday.
Earl's Prime (Routes 202 and 263, Peddler's Village, Lahaska). Oktoberfest dinner tomorrow night, with Paulaner and Hacker-Pschorr Weiss. 215-794-4020.
Brother Paul's (3300 Ridge Pike, Eagleville). Second annual Oktoberfest tomorrow features a pig roast, live entertainment and beer from Warsteiner, Hacker-Pschorr, Paulaner and Beck's. 11 a.m.-5 p.m., $45, includes free mug, 610-539-3909.
Triumph Brewing (117 Chestnut St., Old City). All month, it's pairing a menu of pork tenderloin Dusseldorf, knockwurst salad and wiener schnitzel with fresh lagers.
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