Sixpack Sez

Oct. 3, 2008 | Suddenly, a beer scene in South Philly

SOUTH Philadelphia isn't just prosciutto and cannolis anymore. And it's not just Asian spring rolls and Mexican quesadillas, either.

In the off chance you haven't noticed, there's been a huge influx of hipsters to the neighborhood - young, laconic urban types in tight jeans and tats, cruising Passyunk Avenue on single-gear fixies.

And that means one thing: beer, lots of it, and good stuff, too.

South Philly - a huge swath of city blocks whose corner taprooms offered little more than BudMillerCoors - now rivals Northern Liberties and Fairmount as a craft-beer mecca.

In recent weeks, five new taverns with extensive beer lists have either started pouring or announced launch plans. A huge beer distributor is set to open this weekend. There is word that two premium six-pack shops - something the city desperately needs - could open by next spring. And, perhaps most astonishingly, there's now an Italian restaurant on Passyunk Avenue that serves something other than Chianti and Moretti.

"I think people looked at the South Philadelphia Tap Room, saw how much success they were having and decided to copy it," said Jordan Fetfatzes, who operates Bella Vista Beer (11th and Fitzwater streets), a high-end beer distributor and importer that supplies many of the new joints. "Finally, people are starting to see beer as more than just 'product.' It's living art in a bottle."

SPTR, as it's known in beer circles, has been a remarkable success story. It opened three years ago as an outpost for urban pioneers, revitalizing a seedy section behind St. Agnes Hospital, and immediately began filling up with thirsty patrons from throughout the region. For a while, it had the area south of Washington Avenue to itself when it came to specialty imports and unusual microbrews.

Now it's getting company. The Station Bar & Grill, a couple of blocks away, at 16th and McKean streets, opened in August with 16 good taps.

Meanwhile, on the other side of Broad, East Passyunk Avenue has evolved into a bona fide barhop bonanza, with enough craft beer to keep even the snobbiest Center City dweller happy.

Business has picked up so much that Fetfatzes is moving across the street to a new facility that is four times the size of his current location. The new place, which opens Sunday, will boast about 1,000 beers spread over 40,000 square feet.

Fetfatzes attributes some of the growth to that hipster movement, as twentysomething workers migrate south from Center City in search of cheaper apartments.

But, he added, "We've got 75,000 homes in South Philly, and there are a lot of people here with money to spend down here who'd rather support their local" businesses.

Soon, they won't even have to hustle a parking space at 10th and Pine for a quick six-pack at the Foodery, the city's best takeout. Fetfatzes' brother, Chris, plans to open a high-end bottle shop at Bella Vista's current site. The owner of SPTR has also announced plans to open a takeout store, near 15th and Mifflin streets.

For me, South Philly's biggest surprise is Le Virtu.

This is a classy spot at 1927 E. Passyunk Ave., specializing in Abruzzi cuisine. It might've blended in with the area's many other fine Italian restaurants if it weren't for its very fine beer list.

On the night I visited, there were a half-dozen Sly Fox beers on tap (left over from a recent promotional event), plus an eclectic mix of bottles that included Avery Maharaja Triple, North Coast Pranqster, Belhaven Scottish Ale and Smuttynose Hanami. I enjoyed an outstanding plate of pasta and prosciutto in lemon with a glass of Sly Fox Jasper Maibock.

But if you're not up for a feast, hang out at the bar and pair a Saison Dupont with a basket of steaming fried bread dough, then settle in for $3 bottles of Kenzinger.

Also new and notable

The Tap Room on 19th (19th and Ritner streets). You'll probably have to double-park in this tight Girard Estate neighborhood (leave your cell number on the dash) before heading inside to a very good menu (Chesapeake fries with real crabmeat) and nine taps, including Yards Philadelphia Pale Ale, Samuel Adams Octoberfest and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.

Station Bar & Grill (16th and McKean streets). The roomy bar feels a bit sterile (a cold, kitchen-like marble bar), and on the night of my visit half of the taps were empty. But there's a pool table, darts and good beer, including Ballast Point Calico Amber from San Diego and General Lafayette Chocolate Thunder.

Devil's Den (1148 S. 11th St., at Ellsworth). This beautifully appointed gastropub (from the same folks who run the Old Eagle in Manayunk) opened last spring. Try the blackberry pancakes for brunch with a bottle of barrel-aged Allagash Curieux or a glass of the hard-to-find draft Ayinger Celebrator.

Under construction

Sticks & Stones (1909 E. Passyunk Ave.).

Lucky 13 (1820 S. 13th St., just off Passyunk).

Watkins Drinkery (10th and Watkins streets, near Moore).

And don't forget

For Pete's Sake (900 S. Front St.).

Royal Tavern (937 E. Passyunk Ave.).

The Dive (947 E. Passyunk Ave.).

The Pub on Passyunk East (1501 E. Passyunk Ave.).

1601 (1601 S. 10th St.).

Party in Bella Vista

Bella Vista Beverage (755 S. 11th St.) launches its new distributor on Sunday with a block party from noon till 5 p.m. Enjoy live music, food and some new brews, including Ballast Point Sculpin IPA, Voodoo Black Magick and Beer Valley Leafer Madness. Info at www.bellavistabeverage.com.

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